Masked revelers roam the countryside, chase chickens, and sing and dance in this Mardi Gras tradition that has its roots in medieval France.
Louisiana’s Courir de Mardi Gras has its roots in medieval Europe’s fête de la quémande, an ancient begging ritual. Ethan Castille/Télé-Louisiane
By Jonathan Olivier
As early as the 19th century, Mardi Gras took on two distinct forms in Louisiana. The most well-known is, of course, the New Orleans celebration that involves ornate balls, beads, and parades that were originally celebrated by the city’s Creole and Anglo-American elites. In south and southwest Louisiana, we find the other variant, the Courir de Mardi Gras that was popular among rural working-class families.
While traditions vary by town, generally a Courir de Mardi Gras involves costumed revelers roaming the countryside by foot, with others on horseback, as jesters and beggars. Traditional costumes include a tall, pointed hat called the capuchon, as well as a mask that completely covers the face, and a costume adorned with frilly fabric. The group–collectively referred to as the Mardi Gras–goes from house to house to beg for ingredients, often a chicken, from their neighbors to make a communal gumbo at the end of the day. At many events, there’s a common chant: Donnez quelque chose pour le mardi gras. This tradition has roots in the ancient begging rituals of medieval Europe’s fête de la quémande. Folklorist Carl Lindahl has called it “a tension of order and disorder” as roles are reversed—men dress as women, the young dress as the elderly—amid begging, flogging, inebriation, and general mischievousness. The revelers who are set loose on Louisiana’s prairies are reined in by the authority of le capitaine who oversees the event.
While the event is often depicted in national media as a grand party, Lindahl explained that these rural traditions have historically carried important implications for the community: it defined the boundaries of one’s community; it was a rite of passage for the traditionally all-male participants; it defined reliance on each other; and it also promoted the continuity of the group.
Tradition dictates that the procession of revelers, called the “mardi gras,” wear costumes, masks, and pointed hats called a capuchon. Ethan Castille/Télé-Louisiane
In the 20th century, World War II interrupted the celebrations and there was a decline in participation among many communities as many of the young men had been shipped overseas. Writing for 64 Parishes, Ryan Brasseaux noted, “When the war ended, many communities were slow to reinstitute local festivals. Community activists such as Paul Tate, however, worked to revive the tradition in Mamou and other communities.” At times, this revival incorporated women into what had been a tradition only reserved for men. Today, the spirit of the tradition continues in communities like Church Point, Eunice, and Mamou.
Each celebration has its own customs and rules—some runs allow only men and have strict costume rules, while others are co-ed or more lenient on garbs. This guide includes an overview of various Courir de Mardi Gras celebrations across south Louisiana.
Basile
The Basile Mardi Gras Association hosts a courir celebration at Lafayette’s Vermilionville the weekend before Fat Tuesday as a sort of demonstration. The main celebration is on Mardi Gras day, when men and women participate together. Basile’s Mardi Gras song is particularly unique and it’s sung various times throughout the day as the procession visits neighbors in the countryside.
Church Point
The Courir de Mardi Gras in Church Point adheres to tradition—only men are allowed to participate and they must don a mask and a costume. The event was revived in 1968, when it was established that it would be held on the Sunday before Mardi Gras day in order to not interfere with surrounding runs. Along with Mamou’s celebration, Church Point attracts thousands of people each year to witness the rituals, songs, and chicken chases that culminates with a procession through town and a communal gumbo.
Eunice
The Courir de Mardi Gras in this small town in St. Landry Parish started in the late 19th century and, like many in the area, it was revived after World War II. Although masks and costumes are required, the Eunice event allows for both men and women to participate—a few thousand people run each year. Eunice is home to the Cajun Mardi Gras Festival that takes place for five days, featuring music and a traditional boucherie on Lundi Gras.
The group of participants must follow the rules that are set by the capitaine, who functions as the leader of the event. Ethan Castille/Télé-Louisiane
Faquetaigue
In 2006, a group of friends founded a Courir de Mardi Gras that was more inclusive—meaning men and women could run together. Yet, they didn’t want to sacrifice tradition. Runners still don masks and costumes while roaming the backroads of the Faquetaigue community near Eunice. In addition to a horse-mounted capitaine and roaming villains, revelers attempt to reach a chicken that’s housed in a cage atop a greased pole. At the end of the day, participants enjoy gumbo, boudin, and live music.
L’Anse/Mermentau Cove
Hosted by Cadien Toujours, this run typically takes place more than a week before many other Mardi Gras celebrations. In accordance with local tradition, only men who are wearing a mask and costume are allowed to participate. The group travels through the countryside of Mermentau Cove, chasing chickens and greased pigs, before ending in a celebration full of dancing and traditional Louisiana fare.
LeJeune Cove
In 2002, masked and costumed men got on their horses or roamed around on foot, chanting the Lejeune Cove Mardi Gras song for the first time in nearly 50 years. On the Saturday before Mardi Gras, this run features a traditional chicken chase, costumes, and Cajun music.
A chicken chase stems from the tradition of begging for ingredients from neighbors to feed the community. In Louisiana, this communal meal was always gumbo. Ethan Castille/Télé-Louisiane
Mamou
The Courir de Mardi Gras in Mamou is one of the biggest celebrations of its kind in Louisiana, after its revival in the 1960s. This traditional run allows only men who are fully costumed and masked. Many participants ride horses on this run, while others opt to get ferried by a trailer in the rear of the group. The procession ends on 6th Street in town for a final fais do do and gumbo before the beginning of Lent.
Soileau
Traditions in this Allen Parish community have deep roots in Louisiana’s Black Creole culture. In the 19th century, the Courir de Mardi Gras was held in L’Anse de ‘Prien Noir. Today, both men and women take part to chase chickens and beg for gumbo ingredients from their neighbors.
Tee Mamou-Iota
This tradition in Tee Mamou/Iota features an all-women run the Saturday before Mardi Gras day, when the all-men run takes place. Both events require traditional costumes for a day filled with chicken chases and dancing. On Mardi Gras day, the men’s run ends with a parade at the Folklife Festival in town.